Atypically on Machu Picchu

My life is here now, in this hostel in this city, or on this bus, staring out this window.

This past weekend, my life brought me to a place that has been drawing me to South America for years... the magical mountains and ruins of Machu Picchu. My experience at Machu Picchu was more enlightening and less touristic than I might have previously expected, though.

Hiking up a mountain without words, with wind, and breath, and panoramic views of the valleys below leads the mind to places not easily reached when among the throws of daily living. I began contemplating my place in the world, the things I have done, the things I want, and the things I need in my life, as well as the people in it.

I've now ended a relationship with the man who has been closest to me for the last nine months. Sometimes, the road makes life so viceral, and so immediate, that holding on to a love from home becomes too difficult, too trying.

When sitting above the ruins of Machu Picchu, looking down over the mountains below, we were greeted with a beautiful sight. The ruins were visible to us, and within a moment would be hidden behind a layer of clouds blown in. In another moment, the clouds would lift, and the ruins would be visible again. Am I not like the ruins, and the people in my life not like the clouds, passing through? Some clouds linger and stay in our view, while others move past to greet the next mountain tops.

Physically exhausted, and philosophically dazed, I leave Peru in three days. I hope to enter Bolivia with a renewed sense of purpose and determination, knowing that I have followed my intuition.

Even though travel is often sold as an escape from real life, it can also offer a startling perspective on your own life, which is invisible to you when you're in the middle of living it.

For this new perspective on my own reality, travel, I thank you.

Riding Sand Dunes in Peru

 

As our taxi pulled up to the tiny village of Huacachina, after a long day of bus riding from Nazca, I was taken aback by the view. I felt like I was suddenly in the Arabian deserts, worlds away from the beaches of Mancora and the historic lights of Lima.

 

 

Without even trying, I found myself next to an oasis in the middle of the deserts of Peru.

The next natural step was to get in a huge 4x4 with a wild engine and ride the sand dunes like a rollercoaster. And then, once at the top, to ride head-first down the dunes on a small sandboard.

 

It was the sandiest day of my life.

Despite still finding sand in my pockets now 2 weeks later, it remains one of the best activites I've done in Peru.

From the top of a giant pile of sand, I found myself longing for more of this madness. Longing for more of these days where I wake up and don't know that a few hours later I'll have sand in my teeth and a big grin on my face after riding down a steep sand dune. Longing for more moments of life where I can just jump in head-first and feel the wind (and sand) on my skin.

Whales and Dreams in Peru

5 days into Peru, I've already completed one of my biggest dreams. Ever since I can remember, I've wanted to see whales with my own eyes. From reading magazines to watching underwater National Geographic documentaries, I've been imagining whale watching since I was little.

I didn't know how to conceive of the biggest animals on Earth. How big were they really? Bigger than a school bus? Bigger than my bedroom? I had no sense of the relative size of a whale.

That was, until we were sitting at lunch with a view over the sea on my birthday, and someone pointed out to the horizon and showed us a big white splash. They said it was a whale, far out there, breaching in the deep seas. First one, then another. We just stared at the horizon as giant splashes appeared and disappeared in the distance. It was beautiful to see them, even from afar. I hadn't known that Mancora, Peru, was the best place to whale watch on the west coast of South America, nor did I realize that we were there in the right season. It was decided then and there that we would go whale watching the next day.

It was an early morning. Our boat, small and slow, brought us out to the wavy seas, and we waited with our cameras in hand.

Though I was optimistic, I remembered the time I tried to whale watch with my mom and sister in Cape Breton in 2006, and no whales surfaced for us. Part of me wondered whether the whales would come up for us that day.

It wasn't long before the whales were up too. As they surfaced for air, we pointed and loved each moment. Precious giants, sharing a breath with us.

Still dreaming of whales, my next dream is to see one under water when I scuba dive...

Have you ever seen whales, or do you want to?

inbetweens and constant things

quick moments with the hummingbirds of cocoura, colombia

the reality of travelling for an extensive period is that many of the fundamental elements of your life become fleeting.

the friends you meet are exciting and strange, but as they are near the end of their trip and you at the beginning of yours, the time your paths cross is limited.

the great hostel bed that you find, (with fluffy pillows and a heavy duvet the way you like it), is only yours for a few nights.

the souvenirs, alluring and colourful, become tokens of places and moments which we can't keep living.

the delight you find on a new island of beautiful creatures and crystal clear seas brings joy to your heart, and makes you so happy to be there, but not without a tinge of sadness that it can't last forever.

the best plate of guacamole of your life makes your tastebuds leap for lemon heaven, and though you eat the same dish for the next 4 days straight, the road is calling, and you have to leave.

in ecuador, i sit and wonder, am i not like the hummingbird? flying still for moments over one flower or branch, only to catch a glimpse of the next flower to taste.

through all the motions, the packings/unpackings/repackings, the "ciaos" and the "holas", the gazings out bus windows... through all the changes, it seems the constant elements of your life appear stronger, and more constant, than ever.

for me, the constant element i feel strongly now is my family. when i call home, i love hearing about the repairs to the roof and the cat taking his medicine. i love the constancy and routine of the life my parents live, and wonder a bit myself when i might have such constancy in my life.

Expatkerri's Top 10 Best Spots in Seoul

Yeuido Park at dusk, Seoul 2012 (photo taken with Instagram)

Since 2006, I've been a believer in Seoul as one of the greatest cities of the world. Busy, beautiful, complex, and inspiring, the possibilities for places to visit and things to do are nearly endless. Upon first arrival though, taking a glance at the subway map and the massive crowds on the streets can be quite intimidating.

Where should you go? What should you do?

Here I offer you my top 10 favourite spots in the coolest city in South Korea! I give descriptions of neighbourhoods I like, as well as the activities you can do in those areas. I hope this helps you make the most of your time in Seoul, however long or short your trip.

10 - Visit Myeongdong - "If the shopoholic came to Seoul, she would spend her days in MyeongDong"

Centrally located just a few stops north of Seoul Station, Myeongdong is the most famous area for clothes shopping in all of Seoul. If the crowds don't impress you, the clothes will. This is a really good place to shop for Korean-style clothes, as many of the shops have beautiful window displays which showcase how the pieces are meant to be worn. Korean fashion involves a lot of baggy pieces, layers, and feature pieces, and it can sometimes be hard to see how a certain item might be incorporated into an outfit. I find showing curiosity in feature pieces draws over the employees who will really help to put an outfit together for you. You will feel fantastic in new colours and patterns which you can wear for the rest of your time in Seoul. Though it's not the cheapest shopping area, you should definitely come to Myeongdong if you are at all interested in shopping for clothes while in Seoul.

How to get there: Myeongdong subway station. Line 4, exit 5.


9 - Visit Gyeongbuk Palace - "If the Prime Minister came to Seoul, they would take him to see GyeongBuk Palace"

GyeongBuk Palace, or Gyeongbuk Gung, (gung means palace in Korean) is the biggest, most famous, and best palace in Seoul. It's touristy, but with good reason. Before you enter, take photos of the bearded guards in colourful uniforms, and wait around until they do the changing of the guards. Once you're inside, it's less than 3,000 won to enter the palace, and you'll easily spend hours walking through the grounds. There is a picturesque lake and temple, as well as a museum and a cafe. And, if you like, you can even pay to dress up like Korean royalty and have your photo taken to preserve your memories at the palace.

How to get there: Gyeongbukgung subway station. Line 3, exit 3.


8 - Visit Carosu Gil, Apgujeong - "If Rhianna came to Seoul, she would party in Apgujeong"

Apgujeong is a famously rich district in Seoul, and on Carosu Gil (gil means street in Korean) you'll find the rich and famous out shopping and dining. Most of the stores in this area are extremely expensive designer clothing shops where the employees follow you around like hawks, but it can be really cool to see the beautiful and creative designs. You'll also find cafes with gorgeous and unique interior designs, offering everything from blueberry lattes to wine spritzers. Come here if you want to see the high life of wealthy Seoulites.

How to get there: Apgujeong subway station. Line 3, exit 4. Come out the exit and walk straight for 500m until you reach a sign which reads Carosu Gil on your left. Or just ask someone for Carosu Gil.


7 - Visit Yeuido - "If Lance Armstrong visited Seoul with his kids, they would cycle around Yeuido"

Along the shore of the Han River, families, couples and friends gather in the grass for picnics watching the rollerbladers whiz by. Many people bring tents to this park as there can be a lack of shade in some parts. If you're up for it, there's a waterpark in the park as well with a wave pool. There are also lots of food stands and people handing out flyers for fast food chains which deliver right to the park. You can rent a bike for 3,000 won per hour, or 5,000 for 2 hours, and then you can join the many bike riders along the paths. (Just leave an ID card while you bike to ensure your return). The rental bikes are in top shape, and you can even rent a bicycle for two. How romantic.

How to get there: Yeuido Station. Line 5, exit 3, walk straight for 5 minutes to the open arena with bikers and rollerbladers towards the national assembly building.


6 - Visit Yongsan - "If Ironman came to Seoul, he'd recharge himself in Yongsan"

If you want that overwhelming "I'minAsia!" feeling, Yongsan is the place. This electronic market is packed full of everything anyone could ever need in the form of electronic items: computers, netbooks, cameras, earphones, voice recorders, video equipment, and an endless supply of goodies to go along with these items. After a few hours walking around the electronic market, go down the stairs to Dragon Spa for the ultimate post-neon-shopping relaxation. Dragon Spa is one of the top Jimjilbangs in all of Korea (in my opinion) - and you can trust me, I've been to plenty.

How to get there: Yongsan Station. Line 1, main entrance to electronics market.


5 - Visit Namdaemun Market - "If Batman came to Seoul, he'd have a chase scene through Namdaemun market"

From cameras to Christmas trees, Namdaemun market has a little bit of everything to make any day of shopping worthwhile. If you aren't looking for anything specific, you'll still find yourself leaving the market area with a few treasures. You'll also see a wall of camera stores where you can buy extra batteries and other camera accessories. You can enjoy the beautiful gate by which the area is named after (though it has been under construction since an arson attack in 2008). The market is within walking distance of Seoul station, and there are many restaurants in the area as well as lots of street food.

How to get there: Hoehyeon Station. Line 4, exit 5.

　

4 - Visit Cheonggyecheon - "If the Bachelor came to Seoul, he would take his final choice on a date to Cheonggyecheon"

The perfect end to any day in Seoul is closer than you think. Cheonggyecheon (cheon means stream in Korean) is amazingly quiet and peaceful, almost to the point that you forget where you are. With beautifully lit bridges and waterfalls at night, it's a lovely spot to take photos, and just to sit and listen to the water. You'll never be alone though, as many people seek to find a few serene moments below the city roads. If you're into the vibe, buy some drinks at the Family Mart, find a cozy spot, and people-watch the night away.

How to get there: City Hall Station. Line 1, exit 4. Walk straight 5 minutes until you reach the entrance of the stream.


3 - Visit Samcheong-dong - "If Justin Beiber and Selena Gomez hung out in Seoul, they'd eat waffles in Samcheong-dong"

Take a break from the skyscrapers and noisy chain coffeeshops in favour of small windy streets and independent restaurants. Samcheong-dong is a wonderful way to enjoy Seoul on a smaller scale, literally: tiny roads, 8-seater restaurants, and boutique clothes shops line the streets just north of touristy Insadong. It's easy to fall in love with Seoul when you walk here, as you see art galleries next to adorable coffee shops with cozy creative atmospheres. The area also boasts an owl museum and the entrance to Bugaksan where you can see a great view of the city and the remaining ancient city walls.

How to get there: Anguk subway station: Line 3, exit 1. Cross the street and walk the opposite way from Insadong road.


2 - Visit Dongdaemun - "If Stella McCartney came to Seoul, hanging out in Dongdaemun would inspire her new clothing line"

The madness of this complex of 8 storey open malls is enough to make anyone a fashionista. After wandering the endless stalls of colourful belts and wild patterned skirts, you'll find yourself attracted to items you never considered before. Dongdaemun offers everything and anything that a human being can wear, all in one place. It can be exhausting if you spend more than a few hours inside, but I suggest taking the escalator up to a floor you like, and exploring that entire floor, then taking a coffee break on the top floor. That way you can maximize your shopping time and manage your energy levels. Also, if you're lucky, you'll be able to find the warehouse where you find rows of buttons and jewels to be strung into necklaces and wall hangings.

How to get there: Dongdaemun History and Culture Park subway station. Line 4 & Line 2 intersection, Exit 14.


1 - Visit Hongdae - "If the early days of the Beatles were happening now in Korea, they would perform in Hongdae."

Finally, my personal favourite neighbourhood: Hongdae. Hongdae is the name for the nightbourhood surrounding Hongik university, an art university which attracts creative talent from across the peninsula. Taking a walk around this area you'll see a lot of wild hair colours and styles, a lot of tattoos, a lot of musicians, and a lot of foreigners. This area is becoming very popular among the expat community as a place to party on the weekends. There are a lot of clubs and bars around this area which make it a great place to go out any night of the week. I recommend first visiting on a weekday afternoon for fewer crowds and great people watching. It will also help you get your bearings if you plan on coming back at night. At night, enjoy live music performances, dance-offs, flash mobs, art shows, all over a bottle of rice wine.

How to get there: Hongik University subway station. Line 2, exit 9.

Now you know where to go and what to do to make the most of your time in Seoul.

Enjoy the winding streets, enjoy getting lost and found, enjoy the cleanest and fastest subway rides, and definitely enjoy the street food!

Do you ever...

Do you ever click out of your life for a few days, just waking up, going along with the day, and falling back asleep?

Do you ever feel like sometimes you forget where you are, for want of the past, or dreams of the future?

Do you ever then, suddenly, click back into your life after feeling away for a few days, and look upon it with new eyes? With wonder, gratitude, and awe?

I feel like this right now, as I look back upon my photos from the past week.

Sometimes it's a simple case of becoming truly conscious of where you are which helps you appreciate it. There's nothing wrong with clicking in and out of life; it's how we manage to do our daily business without our hearts exploding over the miracles of language, breath, and memory.

I hope, for you, that you can take a moment today to feel conscious and grateful of where you are.

Ipiales, Colombia

Otavalo, Ecuador

Las Lajas Church, Ipiales, Colombia

Otavalo, Ecuador

Popayan, Colombia

Travels for the rest of the year

I'm in Otavalo, Ecuador, at the moment. We just arrived here yesterday after crossing the border from Colombia.

We have now spent 5 wondrous weeks in Colombia - exploring Cartagena, Santa Marta, Taganga, Tayrona National Park, Medellin, Guatape, Salento, Cali, Popayan, San Agustin, and Ipiales. Now that we've left Colombia, I can feel that the real "journey" part of this South American trip is beginning.

For our first day here in Otavalo, we visited the market to buy souvenirs and handicrafts, and left with armfuls of alpaca ponchos, necklaces, bags, tapestries, pillow cases, and rings. Our backpacks are getting heavier, but our hearts ever-happier too.

After Otavalo, we will go to Quito to catch a flight to the Galapagos Islands. The Galapagos Islands? Yes, the Galapagos Islands!! I never in my life thought I would be saying that...

After Galapagos, we're going to book it to Peru to get to the beach in Mancora to warm our feet in the sand before a long bus to Lima. I am going to try my best to visit the Language Cast Lima group while there. After Lima, there are a few small cities to visit before the mountains of Maccu Pichu.

By early October, we head into Bolivia via Lake Titicaca, stay in Cochabamba to volunteer with children for a few weeks, and after explore the mirrored salt flats of Uyuni.

After Peru it gets a bit blurry, as time and money will dictate where we can go, but the basic outline is to go to Chile to visit friends in Santiago, then over to Argentina to party the night away in Buenes Aires, and to Brazil to finish the trip in Rio by the end of November.

Are you in any of these places, or planning to travel through? If yes, let's meet up! I love the prospect of meeting new friends along the way of a long journey.

Post a comment here or on my Facebook page to make plans :)