Whales and Dreams in Peru

5 days into Peru, I've already completed one of my biggest dreams. Ever since I can remember, I've wanted to see whales with my own eyes. From reading magazines to watching underwater National Geographic documentaries, I've been imagining whale watching since I was little.

I didn't know how to conceive of the biggest animals on Earth. How big were they really? Bigger than a school bus? Bigger than my bedroom? I had no sense of the relative size of a whale.

That was, until we were sitting at lunch with a view over the sea on my birthday, and someone pointed out to the horizon and showed us a big white splash. They said it was a whale, far out there, breaching in the deep seas. First one, then another. We just stared at the horizon as giant splashes appeared and disappeared in the distance. It was beautiful to see them, even from afar. I hadn't known that Mancora, Peru, was the best place to whale watch on the west coast of South America, nor did I realize that we were there in the right season. It was decided then and there that we would go whale watching the next day.

It was an early morning. Our boat, small and slow, brought us out to the wavy seas, and we waited with our cameras in hand.

Though I was optimistic, I remembered the time I tried to whale watch with my mom and sister in Cape Breton in 2006, and no whales surfaced for us. Part of me wondered whether the whales would come up for us that day.

It wasn't long before the whales were up too. As they surfaced for air, we pointed and loved each moment. Precious giants, sharing a breath with us.

Still dreaming of whales, my next dream is to see one under water when I scuba dive...

Have you ever seen whales, or do you want to?

inbetweens and constant things

quick moments with the hummingbirds of cocoura, colombia

the reality of travelling for an extensive period is that many of the fundamental elements of your life become fleeting.

the friends you meet are exciting and strange, but as they are near the end of their trip and you at the beginning of yours, the time your paths cross is limited.

the great hostel bed that you find, (with fluffy pillows and a heavy duvet the way you like it), is only yours for a few nights.

the souvenirs, alluring and colourful, become tokens of places and moments which we can't keep living.

the delight you find on a new island of beautiful creatures and crystal clear seas brings joy to your heart, and makes you so happy to be there, but not without a tinge of sadness that it can't last forever.

the best plate of guacamole of your life makes your tastebuds leap for lemon heaven, and though you eat the same dish for the next 4 days straight, the road is calling, and you have to leave.

in ecuador, i sit and wonder, am i not like the hummingbird? flying still for moments over one flower or branch, only to catch a glimpse of the next flower to taste.

through all the motions, the packings/unpackings/repackings, the "ciaos" and the "holas", the gazings out bus windows... through all the changes, it seems the constant elements of your life appear stronger, and more constant, than ever.

for me, the constant element i feel strongly now is my family. when i call home, i love hearing about the repairs to the roof and the cat taking his medicine. i love the constancy and routine of the life my parents live, and wonder a bit myself when i might have such constancy in my life.

Expatkerri's Top 10 Best Spots in Seoul

Yeuido Park at dusk, Seoul 2012 (photo taken with Instagram)

Since 2006, I've been a believer in Seoul as one of the greatest cities of the world. Busy, beautiful, complex, and inspiring, the possibilities for places to visit and things to do are nearly endless. Upon first arrival though, taking a glance at the subway map and the massive crowds on the streets can be quite intimidating.

Where should you go? What should you do?

Here I offer you my top 10 favourite spots in the coolest city in South Korea! I give descriptions of neighbourhoods I like, as well as the activities you can do in those areas. I hope this helps you make the most of your time in Seoul, however long or short your trip.

10 - Visit Myeongdong - "If the shopoholic came to Seoul, she would spend her days in MyeongDong"

Centrally located just a few stops north of Seoul Station, Myeongdong is the most famous area for clothes shopping in all of Seoul. If the crowds don't impress you, the clothes will. This is a really good place to shop for Korean-style clothes, as many of the shops have beautiful window displays which showcase how the pieces are meant to be worn. Korean fashion involves a lot of baggy pieces, layers, and feature pieces, and it can sometimes be hard to see how a certain item might be incorporated into an outfit. I find showing curiosity in feature pieces draws over the employees who will really help to put an outfit together for you. You will feel fantastic in new colours and patterns which you can wear for the rest of your time in Seoul. Though it's not the cheapest shopping area, you should definitely come to Myeongdong if you are at all interested in shopping for clothes while in Seoul.

How to get there: Myeongdong subway station. Line 4, exit 5.


9 - Visit Gyeongbuk Palace - "If the Prime Minister came to Seoul, they would take him to see GyeongBuk Palace"

GyeongBuk Palace, or Gyeongbuk Gung, (gung means palace in Korean) is the biggest, most famous, and best palace in Seoul. It's touristy, but with good reason. Before you enter, take photos of the bearded guards in colourful uniforms, and wait around until they do the changing of the guards. Once you're inside, it's less than 3,000 won to enter the palace, and you'll easily spend hours walking through the grounds. There is a picturesque lake and temple, as well as a museum and a cafe. And, if you like, you can even pay to dress up like Korean royalty and have your photo taken to preserve your memories at the palace.

How to get there: Gyeongbukgung subway station. Line 3, exit 3.


8 - Visit Carosu Gil, Apgujeong - "If Rhianna came to Seoul, she would party in Apgujeong"

Apgujeong is a famously rich district in Seoul, and on Carosu Gil (gil means street in Korean) you'll find the rich and famous out shopping and dining. Most of the stores in this area are extremely expensive designer clothing shops where the employees follow you around like hawks, but it can be really cool to see the beautiful and creative designs. You'll also find cafes with gorgeous and unique interior designs, offering everything from blueberry lattes to wine spritzers. Come here if you want to see the high life of wealthy Seoulites.

How to get there: Apgujeong subway station. Line 3, exit 4. Come out the exit and walk straight for 500m until you reach a sign which reads Carosu Gil on your left. Or just ask someone for Carosu Gil.


7 - Visit Yeuido - "If Lance Armstrong visited Seoul with his kids, they would cycle around Yeuido"

Along the shore of the Han River, families, couples and friends gather in the grass for picnics watching the rollerbladers whiz by. Many people bring tents to this park as there can be a lack of shade in some parts. If you're up for it, there's a waterpark in the park as well with a wave pool. There are also lots of food stands and people handing out flyers for fast food chains which deliver right to the park. You can rent a bike for 3,000 won per hour, or 5,000 for 2 hours, and then you can join the many bike riders along the paths. (Just leave an ID card while you bike to ensure your return). The rental bikes are in top shape, and you can even rent a bicycle for two. How romantic.

How to get there: Yeuido Station. Line 5, exit 3, walk straight for 5 minutes to the open arena with bikers and rollerbladers towards the national assembly building.


6 - Visit Yongsan - "If Ironman came to Seoul, he'd recharge himself in Yongsan"

If you want that overwhelming "I'minAsia!" feeling, Yongsan is the place. This electronic market is packed full of everything anyone could ever need in the form of electronic items: computers, netbooks, cameras, earphones, voice recorders, video equipment, and an endless supply of goodies to go along with these items. After a few hours walking around the electronic market, go down the stairs to Dragon Spa for the ultimate post-neon-shopping relaxation. Dragon Spa is one of the top Jimjilbangs in all of Korea (in my opinion) - and you can trust me, I've been to plenty.

How to get there: Yongsan Station. Line 1, main entrance to electronics market.


5 - Visit Namdaemun Market - "If Batman came to Seoul, he'd have a chase scene through Namdaemun market"

From cameras to Christmas trees, Namdaemun market has a little bit of everything to make any day of shopping worthwhile. If you aren't looking for anything specific, you'll still find yourself leaving the market area with a few treasures. You'll also see a wall of camera stores where you can buy extra batteries and other camera accessories. You can enjoy the beautiful gate by which the area is named after (though it has been under construction since an arson attack in 2008). The market is within walking distance of Seoul station, and there are many restaurants in the area as well as lots of street food.

How to get there: Hoehyeon Station. Line 4, exit 5.

　

4 - Visit Cheonggyecheon - "If the Bachelor came to Seoul, he would take his final choice on a date to Cheonggyecheon"

The perfect end to any day in Seoul is closer than you think. Cheonggyecheon (cheon means stream in Korean) is amazingly quiet and peaceful, almost to the point that you forget where you are. With beautifully lit bridges and waterfalls at night, it's a lovely spot to take photos, and just to sit and listen to the water. You'll never be alone though, as many people seek to find a few serene moments below the city roads. If you're into the vibe, buy some drinks at the Family Mart, find a cozy spot, and people-watch the night away.

How to get there: City Hall Station. Line 1, exit 4. Walk straight 5 minutes until you reach the entrance of the stream.


3 - Visit Samcheong-dong - "If Justin Beiber and Selena Gomez hung out in Seoul, they'd eat waffles in Samcheong-dong"

Take a break from the skyscrapers and noisy chain coffeeshops in favour of small windy streets and independent restaurants. Samcheong-dong is a wonderful way to enjoy Seoul on a smaller scale, literally: tiny roads, 8-seater restaurants, and boutique clothes shops line the streets just north of touristy Insadong. It's easy to fall in love with Seoul when you walk here, as you see art galleries next to adorable coffee shops with cozy creative atmospheres. The area also boasts an owl museum and the entrance to Bugaksan where you can see a great view of the city and the remaining ancient city walls.

How to get there: Anguk subway station: Line 3, exit 1. Cross the street and walk the opposite way from Insadong road.


2 - Visit Dongdaemun - "If Stella McCartney came to Seoul, hanging out in Dongdaemun would inspire her new clothing line"

The madness of this complex of 8 storey open malls is enough to make anyone a fashionista. After wandering the endless stalls of colourful belts and wild patterned skirts, you'll find yourself attracted to items you never considered before. Dongdaemun offers everything and anything that a human being can wear, all in one place. It can be exhausting if you spend more than a few hours inside, but I suggest taking the escalator up to a floor you like, and exploring that entire floor, then taking a coffee break on the top floor. That way you can maximize your shopping time and manage your energy levels. Also, if you're lucky, you'll be able to find the warehouse where you find rows of buttons and jewels to be strung into necklaces and wall hangings.

How to get there: Dongdaemun History and Culture Park subway station. Line 4 & Line 2 intersection, Exit 14.


1 - Visit Hongdae - "If the early days of the Beatles were happening now in Korea, they would perform in Hongdae."

Finally, my personal favourite neighbourhood: Hongdae. Hongdae is the name for the nightbourhood surrounding Hongik university, an art university which attracts creative talent from across the peninsula. Taking a walk around this area you'll see a lot of wild hair colours and styles, a lot of tattoos, a lot of musicians, and a lot of foreigners. This area is becoming very popular among the expat community as a place to party on the weekends. There are a lot of clubs and bars around this area which make it a great place to go out any night of the week. I recommend first visiting on a weekday afternoon for fewer crowds and great people watching. It will also help you get your bearings if you plan on coming back at night. At night, enjoy live music performances, dance-offs, flash mobs, art shows, all over a bottle of rice wine.

How to get there: Hongik University subway station. Line 2, exit 9.

Now you know where to go and what to do to make the most of your time in Seoul.

Enjoy the winding streets, enjoy getting lost and found, enjoy the cleanest and fastest subway rides, and definitely enjoy the street food!

Do you ever...

Do you ever click out of your life for a few days, just waking up, going along with the day, and falling back asleep?

Do you ever feel like sometimes you forget where you are, for want of the past, or dreams of the future?

Do you ever then, suddenly, click back into your life after feeling away for a few days, and look upon it with new eyes? With wonder, gratitude, and awe?

I feel like this right now, as I look back upon my photos from the past week.

Sometimes it's a simple case of becoming truly conscious of where you are which helps you appreciate it. There's nothing wrong with clicking in and out of life; it's how we manage to do our daily business without our hearts exploding over the miracles of language, breath, and memory.

I hope, for you, that you can take a moment today to feel conscious and grateful of where you are.

Ipiales, Colombia

Otavalo, Ecuador

Las Lajas Church, Ipiales, Colombia

Otavalo, Ecuador

Popayan, Colombia

Travels for the rest of the year

I'm in Otavalo, Ecuador, at the moment. We just arrived here yesterday after crossing the border from Colombia.

We have now spent 5 wondrous weeks in Colombia - exploring Cartagena, Santa Marta, Taganga, Tayrona National Park, Medellin, Guatape, Salento, Cali, Popayan, San Agustin, and Ipiales. Now that we've left Colombia, I can feel that the real "journey" part of this South American trip is beginning.

For our first day here in Otavalo, we visited the market to buy souvenirs and handicrafts, and left with armfuls of alpaca ponchos, necklaces, bags, tapestries, pillow cases, and rings. Our backpacks are getting heavier, but our hearts ever-happier too.

After Otavalo, we will go to Quito to catch a flight to the Galapagos Islands. The Galapagos Islands? Yes, the Galapagos Islands!! I never in my life thought I would be saying that...

After Galapagos, we're going to book it to Peru to get to the beach in Mancora to warm our feet in the sand before a long bus to Lima. I am going to try my best to visit the Language Cast Lima group while there. After Lima, there are a few small cities to visit before the mountains of Maccu Pichu.

By early October, we head into Bolivia via Lake Titicaca, stay in Cochabamba to volunteer with children for a few weeks, and after explore the mirrored salt flats of Uyuni.

After Peru it gets a bit blurry, as time and money will dictate where we can go, but the basic outline is to go to Chile to visit friends in Santiago, then over to Argentina to party the night away in Buenes Aires, and to Brazil to finish the trip in Rio by the end of November.

Are you in any of these places, or planning to travel through? If yes, let's meet up! I love the prospect of meeting new friends along the way of a long journey.

Post a comment here or on my Facebook page to make plans :)

Colours of Colombia: Capture the Colour Photo Contest

Among the travel blogger sphere, there's been a lot of buzz about Capture the Colour contest started by TravelSupermarket. I was recently tagged to participate in the contest by my friend and talented photographer Andi of My Beautiful Adventures. The contest winner gets £2000, which would make for heaps of pesos...

As I am currently travelling in Colombia, which is one of the most colourful and photographically inspiring countries I've ever seen, I'm only posting photos from Colombia.

Let me know which colour you enjoy the most in a comment below.

BLUE

Silvia, Colombia

We took a near 2-hour bus journey to arrive at this market, and right as we pulled up we realized it was going to be a blue day. With all the locals dressed in bright traditional Colombian blue, we got our cameras out and were ready to take photos the magic before us. We quickly realized it was going to be a challenge, as a few of the people turned away from the camera or said no when we asked if we could take a photo. Disappointed, with our hearts beaming with amazement and joy for the sights before us, one woman smiled and waved us over to her corner. She then pulled out a beaded necklace and chatted away with my friend in Spanish as I snuck a few photos. She then offered for us to take more photos, and cracked a huge laugh at seeing herself on the camera. It was a lovely start to our morning in the market.

GREEN

Salento, Colombia

The green hills and quiet winds of Salento soothed my soul upon arrival, and my heart smiled when I saw a guitar free for the playing in the hostel common area. I grabbed it, and found a spot overlooking the hills to strum and relax. After a few chords and lines, this cow walked up out of nowhere and stared right at me. I wondered if it was listening to my songs, or if it cared at all that I was there. We shared the view of the hills and a song or two together that afternoon.

YELLOW

Cartagena, Colombia

My first stop in Colombia was Cartagena, and I couldn't have started in a more colourful city. Everywhere we walked, the crumbling vivid walls begged to be photographed. This scene above is at the entrance of the old town in Cartagena, and we walked past this magazine stand every morning. The man greeted us with an "hola chicas" and a smile, and this bright photo reminds me of the friendliness of strangers all over Colombia.

WHITE

Salento, Colombia

Salento is in the middle of Colombia, and is one of the most famous coffee-growing regions in all of Colombia. After a few days riding horses and hiking the nearby mountains, we thought a coffee farm tour was in order. Luckily, we found a sweet local guide at the Don Elias coffee farm who took us around the grounds of his family business. You can read in more detail about the coffee tour in my blogpost here. In the photo above, the organic beans are in the drying stage of the coffee-making process. They are a gorgeous white when they come out of the red beans, and turn to the familiar black colour we know and love after they are roasted.

RED

Salento, Colombia

After an hour of intense horseback riding - the kind where you feel like Indiana Jones as your horse trots through wandering rivers and takes you down steep hills on rolling stones - you begin to feel at one with nature. Now add a cloud of beautiful butterflies to the mix. Now you feel like Indiana Jones at a party with real-life confetti being thrown at you as you wade through the water and make it to the other side. That's how we felt that day, and I was lucky enough to catch a close glimpse of just one of the hundreds of butterflies who scurried around us as we trotted by.

The memories preserved in these photos are moments in time from a journey I'm still on. I look back at each one and remember a time and a place when I was welcomed in this beautiful country.

I hope to keep capturing colours and moments like these for the rest of my travels.

Thank you to Travelsupermarket for creating this contest, and for giving all of us travel bloggers a challenging way to showcase our photos.

Guest Post: Eating My Way Around Korea

My first meal in Korea was bibimbap. My friend who I was with at the time told me to stir up all the veggies and rice with the red sauce, or else the lady would come over and stir it for me. In disbelief, I took a bite of the unstirred rice, and like clockwork the lady came over, grabbed my bowl, and stirred it up for me with a grunt. I learned right then that I was in a special place, where meal time is serious business.

I have invited my friend and fellow Korea-ite Audrey of ThatBackpacker to share her impressions of the great variety of foods this peninsula has to offer. Read along as she explains her adjustment to regularly overloading on rice and eating squid with beer.

Make us hungry, Audrey...

 

 

Eating My Way Around Korea

Six months into my stint as an expat in Korea, I have learned a thing or two about the country’s cuisine. It wasn’t an easy start; the first time I went to a restaurant I mixed my soup, rice, and side dishes all in one bowl thinking that’s the way Korean’s did it… Nope, not quite.

During my time here I have eaten more cabbage and radishes than ever before in my life, I have mastered the art of grilling a slippery eel, I have burned my lips with metal chopsticks, and I have unknowingly devoured a dish that contained coagulated ox blood and loved it! Here’s a look at my highs and lows of dining in Korea:

The One I Tried And Liked: Dolsot Bibimbap

Before coming to Korea, rice was not a part of my diet; I found it bland and boring. Over the past few months, however, my attitude towards rice has changed. Not only has it become a staple item at every meal, it has also become one of my favourite dishes. Dolsot bibimbap is a meal served in a stone hot pot that contains rice, a raw egg, red chili paste, cucumbers, zucchini, soybean sprouts, and a bunch of other vegetables that I still don’t know by name. You can hear the pot sizzle as it is brought out to the table. I like to grab a spoon and press the rice down allowing it to get golden and crispy before mixing the assortment of ingredients together. What you are left with is a warm filling dish that is perfect anytime of year. I like it so much that I sometimes eat it twice a day!

The One I Have Gotten Used To: Samgyeopsal

Samgyeopsal is a traditional Korean meal, which consists of thick, extra fatty slices of pork belly cooked over a grill. You then place these pieces of meat in a lettuce leaf along with some garlic and red chili paste, wrap it into a little wad, and pop them in your mouth. Sounds fun, right? This may not seem like a strange meal, but having been raised in Argentina where the quality of beef is second to none, I couldn’t understand why anyone would want to eat fatty chunks of pork! My first attempt at the meal consisted of me trying to pick the fat off of whatever little meat there was; that proved futile. After a few more unsuccessful meals I decided to… embrace the fat! It’s still not my first choice for dinner, but I can handle it.

The One I Won’t Be Repeating: Dry Squid

At most Korean bars, you are often expected to purchase some kind of snack to go along with your beer. Dry squid happens to be a popular choice and so I thought I would give it a go. Maybe it’s because I had been drinking some kiwi infused soju, but at that moment the squid was one of the foulest tasting things I have ever put in my mouth. It was chewier than rubber and smelled worse than a fish market at high noon. I gnawed at the piece and pushed it around my mouth trying to get it down as fast as possible. At that I was unsuccessful; most of it ended up on my napkin… I like to think I’m mildly adventurous since I did try eel on a previous occasion, but the squid and I shall keep our distance for the remainder of my time here.

The One I Refuse to Try: Dog Meat

I remember asking one of my students what they did over the weekend. The student smiled back at me and proudly stated that they ate dog meat. I was so shocked by their answer that I stared wide-eyed for a few seconds not knowing how to respond. Up until then, I hadn’t realized dog meat was consumed in Korea. I soon learned that dog stew is considered quite the delicacy by some; those who have tried it tell me it’s one of the tastiest and sweetest meats out there. I, however, cannot bring myself to sample it; even if it is considered a cultural aspect. I grew up with dogs as family pets and have a sweet little Lhasapoo back at home that I really miss snuggling with. This is one item on the menu I will not be trying. Ever.

I have tried lots of new meals over the past six months, some that I wanted to and some that I never imagined I would. I have sat at bars, tables, and on floors. My palate has enjoyed sweet, hot and spicy concoctions, and I’m looking forward to the new flavours that the next six months will bring.

What are your favourite Korean meals?


Audrey is the girl behind That Backpacker. She was born in Canada, raised in Argentina, and now finds herself teaching English to a mischievous bunch in Korea. When she's not on the hunt for authentic Indian curries, she can be found exploring her current home base, and plotting her upcoming travels around the globe. You can follow Audrey on her blog, her Facebook page, and her Twitter for even more adventures!