From a Woman's Perspective: A Message about Consent

In 2008, I was walking to my apartment at night and a man approached me to ask for directions. I pointed where to go and he grabbed my butt. I said "sorry" and walked away. "Sorry". I did nothing wrong and I apologized to a guy who grabbed my butt, because it is ingrained in me, and in others, to be polite. "Sorry".

Does it matter that I was wearing a short skirt that night? Does it matter that I didn't wear a skirt for a month after that?

Last week on a crowded subway in Beijing at rush hour, someone grabbed my butt. I swatted the hand away. I share these two stories as a person who has encountered unwanted advances. It happens.

With #notallmen all over Twitter, and in light of this recent expose, I wanted to share a bit of my life experience, as well as some musings on the word "no".

For some of us, saying "no" is hard. Even when someone is doing something unwanted, the word "no" might come to mind, but the politeness and preservation of the happy mood might lead us to say everything but "no".

For this reason, it's clear that "no" isn't always a word. In fact, in my life, I've only ever used the word "no" in a physical situation once, despite having been in multiple scenarios where the word "no" would have been useful.

"No" doesn't have to be said. It can be a look of the eye, a turn of the shoulder, a nudge of the hand, a turn of the head; no comes in many colours.

It could be "I don't know" or "I have a boy/girlfriend" or "I'll be late" or "I'm tired" or anything else that isn't a bright smiling yes. All of these are the actions of a person who doesn't want the advance. It could be "sorry". If someone doesn't want to kiss you, they probably don't want to do anything else.

There's a big difference between touching someone who wants it, and touching someone who doesn't.

Guest Post: Volunteering in Western Kenya

My good friend visited Kenya a few years ago, and when I asked her to tell me all about it, before anything else, she grinned and replied "you'll have to see it for yourself."

Since that conversation, Kenya has become somewhere I want to go and stay for a while. The way of living, the food, the natural landscape, and the music allure me. Though I have visited other countries through which the equator passes, I have still yet to set foot in the African continent. Lucky for us, former English teacher in Korea turned blogger Natalie over at Live Teach Alaska has written up a guest post all about her time in Kenya. Here she shares her stories from her time volunteering in the Muhuru Bay area in Western Kenya. Take us into the bush, Natalie...

After six hours of driving over the uneven dirt roads of the Great Rift Valley, my team and I arrived in Muhuru Bay, Kenya, in the dark of night. Our van pulled into a tiny compound with three mud huts on the shore of Lake Victoria. Sleepily, I grabbed my suitcase and headed into my designated hut. I turned on the light, which was but a small, dim bulb at the apex of the triangular straw ceiling, and watched in horror as a carpet of insects scattered towards the walls. Shooting towards me was a creature several inches in length that closely resembled a white scorpion (though I still don’t know what it was). I screamed, my husband raced in, shouted, “Oh my God!”, and attempted to squash the Godzilla bug with a broom.

This was my first experience in the Eastern African Bush. After finally settling in that night, I was destined for one week of plastic bag showers, second degree sunburns, and toilet troubles. However, I can confidently say it was all worth it. My trip to Muhuru Bay truly changed my life.

I traveled to Kenya with eight family members and family friends to volunteer at Mama Maria, a fledgling clinic in Muhuru Bay. On our second day in the village, we were unexpectedly invited to a funeral. Despite our protests, we were seated as guests of honor and watched as family members of the deceased mourned by openly wailing.

After the funeral, we sat down at the feasting table and shared a plate of ugali with the people of the village. Children hid behind trees and rocks, staring and smiling at us.

A plate of ugali: maize cooked with water

The next day, we took a small fishing boat to visit a village on the other side of the lake. Despite the very poor living conditions, the villagers flocked over to greet us and show us around. A little girl took my hand as we were shown inside the huts of several of the village people who proudly showed off their pots and pans.

Later that week, we traveled to the only school in Muhuru Bay to teach a lesson about dental hygiene. Because the people in Muhuru Bay brush their teeth with tree bark, standard dental care was foreign knowledge. We passed out toothbrushes, toothpaste, and floss and showed them how to properly clean their teeth with a toothbrush.

A few days before the end of our trip, we heard about two girls who had fled Tanzania with their father to live in Muhuru Bay. The two girls we met had albinism and were forced to escape from their home because witch doctors were hunting them for their arms and legs. In Tanzania, it is a widespread belief that albino limbs have magical healing powers. The two little girls, ages 3 and 5, were scabbing all over their bodies due to terrible sunburns. We drove out to meet them and brought hats, sunscreen, and two goats for their family.

Although my first trip to Kenya wasn’t glamorous, it was extremely eye-opening and has changed me in so many ways. Witnessing a different culture, getting out of my comfort zone, volunteering, and giving to others made for a trip I’ll never forget. If you ever have the opportunity to travel to the African Bush, I would highly recommend it. I assure you, you will walk out of the experience a different person. 

You can follow Natalie’s adventures in a native Alaskan village at: http://www.liveteachalaska.com/

Or join the conversation at: https://www.facebook.com/LiveTeachAlaska  

My Packing List! 6 months in South America

6-months backpacking in Central and South America

My (light) Packing List

Bags:

- 1 MEC 60L travel bag

- 1 small backpack (which can fit in my large travel bag)

- 1 over-the-shoulder purse

Clothes:
- 3 sundresses
- 1 long skirt (which doubles as a tube dress when hiked up and belted)
- 1 pair of leggings
- 1 pair of jean shorts
- 3 short sleeve shirts
- 1 long sleeve shirt
- 2 bikinis
- 3 pairs of socks
- 1 bra
- 5 pairs of underwear
- 1 sunhat

Shoes:
- 1 pair of Blundstone boots
- 1 pair of flipflops
- 1 pair of Birkenstocks
- 1 pair of cute flats

Gear:
- Acer Notebook
- iPhone 4s + charger + earphones
- 4 cameras (GoPro Hero, Canon ELPH 300, Canon F4000, toy film camera)
- extra batteries + chargers
- 6 memory cards of different sizes

Toiletries:
- shampoo + conditioner (small bottles)
- face wash + lotion
- toothbrush + toothpaste
- tweezers + nail clippers (which double as scissors)
- makeup
- hairbrush + hair clips + elastics
- razor + extra blades

Practicalities:
- passport (and photocopy of passport photo page)
- 2 credit cards
- around USD $100 in cash
- guidebook
- compass
- camera stand
- extra passport photos (for visas)
- 1 quick-dry travel towel
- 1 silk sleepsack (which I only used once)

Medicines:
- chewable Pepto Bismul tablets
- motion sickness pills
- Acetazolamide tablets for altitude sickness (Diamox) 

Extras:
- red nail polish
- jewelry

Stuff I needed to buy while travelling:
- rain jacket
- sunscreen
- bug spray
- warm alpaca sweater

On this trip, I tried to pack light, and bring only the things that I would use at least once a week. I didn't bring any pants, and used my leggings as a substitute for pants (which actually worked out well). At times, I wished I had more variety in my clothing, as it got a little boring to wear the same clothes every single day. I went shopping a few times, and bought a few extra sundresses to add to my minimal wardrobe.

Overall, I would recommend a light backpack, as you naturally acquire lots of little extra things while you travel. Having a light bag allows you to pick up things as you go, without your bag getting too heavy. That being said, after I bought a giant painting in Cartagena, and then a huge poncho in the Otavalo market in Ecuador, my backpack got too full and too heavy to carry comfortably for long distances. At that point, I took those items out of my bag and mailed them home to Canada in a box through the post. It was easy, and not very expensive, either. I felt like a new person when I put my backpack on without those heavy items in it!

Are you a light packer like me?

Or do you like to pack for precaution and carry lots of stuff with you?

Travelling Alone: How to get the most out of solo travel

Istanbul, Turkey

“Hi Kerri, 

I found your blog a few days ago and read that you travelled solo around Europe after graduating uni. I'm actually just finishing high school (sixth form here in England!), and in the four months before I start uni I'm travelling to Australia, stopping off in New Zealand, Thailand, and hopefully Hong Kong. Although there are a few people I'll be able to stay with, and a few I'll meet up with, I will be spending the vast majority of the trip on my own, and was wondering if you've got any tips about how to get the most out of solo travel. I'd also like to meet people as I go - do you have any particular ideas about how to do this? I booked my ticket, also kind of an 'in the moment' thing, and was getting a bit nervous, so it was really cool to read that you did something similar and had a great time.

Thanks so much, 
Ruby, from Cambridge” 

I dedicate this post to you, Ruby, and to all first-time solo travellers who are reading this. There are a lot of solo travellers out there right now, on planes, on trains, and in hostels, and every one of them took the same leap of faith you are contemplating now.

Here I will outline what I've gathered from my own solo travel experiences in the hopes of inspiring some of you to book the flight you've been dreaming of. Be not afraid of travelling solo - the only thing you should be scared of is the fact that you might never stop travelling once you start.

London, England

Book Your Ticket Now

When I booked my one-way ticket to London back in 2006, drunk off the amazing conversation I’d had with my roommate, and perhaps a little wine, I felt instantly like something big was happening. I had put into motion a plan I’d had in mind for so many years, a dream, a wish: to backpack in Europe alone. All I did was log onto expedia.com, chose my flight, put in my credit card info, and clicked “Confirm”. I read over the confirmation email, marked the date in my calendar, and from that moment on, had a date to count down to. Nothing excites me more than having a flight coming up for a new adventure.

If you’re scared, worried, and feeling totally crazy, know that I was too.

When I arrived at the airport, all packed up, guidebook in hand, I said goodbye to my parents and realized I was on my own. I was actually starting my journey – alone. Waiting at the departure gate, I read my book and stared at the other travellers, wondering if anyone else was also alone. I was too shy to ask at that point though, so I was left with my imaginings of the other people.

As soon as we landed at Gatwick, I made friends with another traveller while waiting to pick up my bag. He asked me if I was going downtown, and we shared a cab into the city.This brings me smoothly to my next piece of advice…

Guilin, China
 

Talk to Other Travellers 

You’re in a new city,and you don’t really know the ropes. You might have a place in mind to visit,but you’re not really sure if you want to go there alone. Lucky for you,there’s an army of solo travellers just like you sitting down for the free hostel breakfast, and this is your chance to find a friend and travel companion for the day. Ask others where they plan on going that day, and let them know what places you have in mind. If you have overlapping plans, before you can ask to join, the other will probably invite you to come along. If you're feeling shy, use my tactic for meeting people, and just pretend that you're already friends with whoever you're meeting. That way, you speed through all of the formalities and can get to the real conversations.

Travellers are some of the most easy going and friendliest people I’ve ever encountered, and they tend to treat fellow travellers as insta-friends. Meeting all these friendly people brings me to the next tip for solo travels…

 Hanoi, Vietnam

Talk to the Hostel Staff 

Not sure where the nearest ATM is? Wanna find a movie theatre? Lost your adapter? The staff at hostels are a great resource, as most of them are experienced travellers themselves. They can offer lots of good ideas for things to do when you arrive in a new city, and some hostels even offer free daily walking tours of the cities. If you're not sure where to eat, hostel staff can usually provide you with an extensive list of local choices, and they might even invite you to join them at their regular spot. If you want company, tell the staff you're travelling alone and they'll be happy to guide you in the right direction to meet some people to hang out with. Once you find your groove, take this next piece of advice and run...

Cheongju, Korea

Say Yes to Everything (within reason)

One of the greatest joys of solo travel is the ability to be spontaneous, and this means being able to say “yes” to unplanned invitations. At your hostel, when you start talking with other travellers, you’ll hear about places you never knew existed until that moment, and you might be invited to tag along and visit somewhere that you’d never planned on going. Even if you think the activity isn’t really your style, (like me agreeing to join a pub-crawl in Berlin when all I really wanted to do was sit in the park), by saying yes, you give yourself a chance to have a new experience. Isn’t that what all this travel business is about, anyway? Onto my next tip…

Dublin, Ireland

Keep a Journal

Travelling alone can be a very reflective time in your life, and many people say they travel to “figure out what they’re doing”. Although you might not get the answer to that question, you will certainly have a lot of time to think. Taking a train alone,having a meal alone, or even waking up in a hostel after everyone’s checked out: you are surrounded with as much alone time as you seek. I always like to keep a diary so that when I have an epiphany about something, or even just want to make a note about the name of the amazing food I ate for dinner, I can. To look back on old travel journals is a great pleasure, and sitting with a journal can be a conversation starter with other travellers. I can’t even count the number of times I’ve been sitting in a hostel bar writing in my diary when someone comes up and asks what I’m writing.  

“I never travel without my diary.One should always have

something sensational to read on the train.”

- Oscar Wilde

Brussles, Belgium

Here's a little anecdotal tale in the spirit of journalling and Oscar Wilde...

Once when I was taking an overnight train somewhere in Germany, I met three American travellers. We chatted about our routes, and naturally I pulled out my diary when the conversation died down. At that point, the conversation livened up again as they all became very curious about my diary. After a while, I eventually handed it over for them to devour. They loved reading of my escapades, and it was fun for me to see how others reacted to the way I'd journaled my experiences. I really should look back on those diary entries… but first, the next tip!

Machu Picchu, Peru

Trust Your Gut & Be Smart 

The running theme here is that travellers are pretty nice people, and of course this is a generalization, but it is one that I have made throughout my travels in 45 different countries, and one that I hold to be mostly true. I believe trusting in people, both locals and other travellers, allows me to relax when I travel, and it helps me be spontaneous and have more enriching travel experiences. However, no matter what you might be doing, always listen to that little voice inside of you. If something feels wrong, it probably is. Since you’re travelling alone, no one else is going to take responsibility for you if something goes wrong. Be smart – you’re ultimately the only one who can take care of yourself if you need to think straight. I hope I’m stating the obvious when I say don’t get plastered drunk with a group of people you don’t know, don’t take drugs from anyone, and definitely don’t leave your belongings with a trusting stranger. Lock up your valuables (passport, money, credit cards, computer if you have one, hard drive, etc.) in the lockers provided by hostels, and you’ll feel much more at ease knowing your things are safe. Now that I’ve lectured you about safety, let’s get back to the fun stuff…

Cahuita, Costa Rica

Don’t Plan Too Much 

When I travel, I usually have a general route in mind for the cities and sites I want to visit. The way I find what I want to see varies, but a fun way to get ready for a trip is to Google map the place you are visiting, and click to view the images. You can click around and see street views of the places you are interested in, as well as discover amazing churches, landscapes, and things you never knew were there. So, do some research and get excited about seeing certain places… but don’t stick to your plan like glue. Travels rarely go exactly as planned, as trains and buses leave off schedule, certain hostels are closed for the season, and sometimes you just change your mind once you get somewhere. Leave room in your plans for change, as you might arrive somewhere and fall in love with the hostel dog and just want to stay there and chill out for a while. You want to give yourself options when you travel, so my advice is to always keep things open… and that’s our last piece of advice here! 

Perth, Australia

Be Open 

In 2006, before I set out for my first solo travels in Europe, I sat in the passenger seat as my dad drove me to the airport. I had packed everything carefully, and I was ready to go. We talked along the way, and as we approached the airport, my dad offered this timeless advice:

“When you’re on the open road, be open.” 

This was the first sentence I wrote in my diary of my Europe trip, and I’ve never forgotten it. There is no other time in your life when you are as free to do what you like as when you travel alone. Tired? Sleep in. Hungry? Eat another lunch. Don’t want to take a night bus tonight? Stay another day.

You are the master of your own destiny when you travel alone. To make sure you get the most out of the experience, be open to the places you go, and the people you meet. For me, when I look back on my favourite moments in my travels, many of them involve the amazing friends I travelled with. But, there are also many special memories and experiences that I had when I was alone...

Sitting in a park in Cusco, watching kids play in a fountain. Eating a giant gooey chocolate waffle in the streets of Brugges. Sharing a loaf of bread with some kids in Angkor Wat. Being asked where in Paris I lived when walking in Champ de Mars. Taking a selfie in front of Big Ben. Going for the same café con leche at the same café for 2 weeks straight in Santiago. Crying on a train from Berlin to Amsterdam. Coming back to my hostel bed in Warsaw to find a note from a fellow traveller with whom I hadn’t swapped emails yet. Memorizing the names of school children in Santa Cruz...

And I wouldn’t have these memories any other way.

Colonia, Uruguay

Travelling alone is scary at the beginning, but as soon as you realize you are completely in control of everything you do, you quickly learn to love the freedom. Give in to your temptations to be on the road alone - you never know what's drawing you travel, or who you might meet, until you're out there. Nothing quite compares with the feeling of sitting on a plane full of strangers, quietly bubbling with joy inside knowing you're doing it - you're finally travelling alone!

Join the rest of us solo backpackers hanging out on couches and wandering around airports and bus stations. We are waiting for the next solo traveller to share a taxi with...

Love Solo Travel? Add your tip as a comment below.

Guest Post: The Ten Best Resources to Launch Your Life Abroad

The Open Road, Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

 

It's not easy to pick up your life and move to a new country for work. You might be scared to quit your job at home and not feel ready to follow the little voice inside you, telling you the world is out there, waiting for you. You might not be sure how to make your dreams of a life abroad a sustainable reality. Leaving home and moving abroad can be confusing, difficult, and may present challenges which seem insurmountable.

However, once you are out there in the world, living the life abroad you wanted for yourself, it could be the best decision you ever made in your life.

I recently came to know Alexa Hart, founder of Atlas Sliced. Her website is a collection of the experiences and success stories of expats living, working, and travelling around the world. With her access to so many expats, I asked her to compile a list of resources for those looking to start a life abroad. She agreed, and I'm proud to share this comprehensive list with you here.

Take us to the nearest airport, Alexa...

Alexa Hart

If you’re looking to live or work abroad long-term, look no further. As the founder and host of Atlas Sliced, I have had the privilege of interviewing inspirational people who have held incredibly unique positions all over the globe. From location-independent jobs (like writing) to in-country jobs (like teaching) to “hustler” jobs (like working as a waiter or in sales), my guests have fulfilled their passions for traveling and experiencing the world in new surroundings.

Here, I have listed in alphabetical order my top resources and recommendations for launching your life abroad.

1) Around the World in 80 Jobs – Turner Barr is the man behind this site. He has done some very unconventional work, like harvesting agave in Mexico and selling gluhwein in Germany. While his posts may be controversial and are sometimes riddled with bad words, he shows that you can find work just about anywhere. All it takes is perseverance and entrepreneurial creativity.

2) Go Overseas – If you’re thinking of traveling with an organization, Go Overseas is a one-stop shop for finding volunteer organizations, teach abroad opportunities, study abroad programs, and internships overseas. What I like about Go Overseas is that real people review their own experiences, and there’s no backlash for writing negative reviews. What also drew me to them is their team of talented writers and guest writers, who provide accurate, unbiased, and useful information about living abroad.

3) Grassroots Volunteering – Not digging paid programs? Understandable. Grassroots Volunteering is a relatively new site that lists FREE volunteer programs (some are paid) and opportunities around the world. I’m excited to see the site develop even further, as there are already quite a few meaningful organizations listed.

4) Idealist – Idealist is a fantastic website that lists jobs, volunteer work, and internships all over the world. Most organizations on the site revolve around some form of civil service and giving back to society.

5) InterNations – InterNations is a site that connects expats with each other. It’s a great way to meet new people when you move to a foreign country, as they hold regular events in various cities for people to network and mingle. Another feature they have on their site is their forums. People can post questions or comments about job openings, housing, or any other inquiries they might have to the community.

6) Leslie Forman – Leslie Forman is a gem! She is a California native who has lived abroad extensively, mostly in China and Chile. She created a free, month-long course titled “How to Create Your International Career.” The course is packed with fantastic content and resources to get started. She’s also in the process of writing a book on this topic.

7) Meet Plan Go – Meet Plan Go is an excellent site for inspiration and how-to advice about taking a career break or traveling long-term in general. Their national and local events are also a great way to meet like-minded individuals who have already lived abroad or who want to spend time overseas.

8) Stacie Berdan – Stacie is an “international career expert” and an accomplished author who makes the case that you can get ahead in life by going abroad. She writes and speaks frequently about how international experience will help people succeed in the ever-changing “globalized world.”

9) Teaching Traveling – Want a teaching job overseas, but you’re not sure where to start? You’ve come to the right place. Teacher Lillie Marshall, founder of the site, interviews people who have taught all over the world. What I love most about Teaching Traveling is the first-hand accounts of people’s experiences abroad.

10) Thrilling Heroics – If location independence is the way you like to roll, Thrilling Heroics is the place to be. Founder Cody McKibben is a digital nomad who is living a pretty exciting international life, as he is able to work from anywhere. He helps people build location-independent businesses online, and he has a slew of great articles on his site about how to get started.

Any other sites you like or recommend?

5 Real Tips for Travelling in South America

Tortuga Bay, Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

1. Be scared, but not too scared

There were some cities where I didn't go out past 9pm for fear of what lurks in the dark. There were hostels with signs up warning of thefts on the hostel grounds. There were travellers with stories of being held up at knife-point in the mornings, and even being mugged with a screwdriver. And more than one story of over-friendly locals turning sour. There were a few taxi rides where it occurred to me that the taxi driver could be taking me anywhere, down any alley way, and could hold me up and take everything. There were even a few times when I took the memory card out of my camera and shoved it in my pocket, to save my photos in case someone stole my purse. There were dangers, there were fears, and there were moments when I really didn't know if everything was okay. Being a little bit scared helped me stay safe, make wise decisions, and keep my guard up when I needed it.

Lake Titicaca, Peruvian/Bolivian border

2. Go with someone

Travelling with my friend helped a lot, as our two brains together worked well to keep us aware and safe, and paying attention to the things around us. She and I both had moments of being scared, and usually the other could logically calm down the situation.

We met a lot of couples on this trip, and met far few solo travellers in South America than we had met in Southeast Asia or Europe. We both experienced a few weeks of solo time in South America, and agreed that it was safer and much more fun to travel South America with a friend.

La Paz, Bolivia

3. Buy everything

Alpaca sweaters, blankets, scarves, musical instruments, coffee, handmade necklaces, shoes, teacups, ponchos, pillow cases, friendship bracelets, jackets, toys, statues...

Cusco, Peru

4. Trust your instincts

When I arrived by night bus in Buenos Aires by myself early in the morning, I planned on taking a taxi into the city centre. I walked around and checked out my options for "secure taxis" (a safe taxi service company), and also checked out the normal taxi area. When I came outside, a man greeted me and asked "taxi?" and I said yes. I then noticed a row of taxis ready to go, and the man shook his arm no, and told me that all those taxi drivers were on their coffee breaks. I then thanked him and went inside to get a secure taxi.

Why did I do that?

Because, if something seems too outlandish to be true, it probably is. [Were ALL those taxi drivers really taking their coffee breaks at the same time, making the man talking to me the ONLY available taxi driver? I think not.] When strangers come up to talk to you or offer you things, evaluate their behaviour, and listen to your gut if you get a bad feeling. I listened to my instincts on this trip, and more than a few times I'm certain it saved me from a potentially bad situation.

Pichilemu, Chile

5. Go to South America now

Peru has been a hotspot for South American travel for decades, and in high season up to 5,000 visitors might see Machu Picchu in a day. Colombia, however, is still not too touristic, and neither is Bolivia (beyond La Paz and the Uyuni desert). These two countries will become more popular as more people visit, and they too will become more established stops on the South America gringo trail. And Ecuador? Who knows if tourists will continue to be allowed to visit the Galapagos islands in large numbers. If you go now, you can still feel the warmth of Colombian hospitality, see the magic of people walking in traditional hats and clothes in La Paz, and come face to face with the wildlife of the Galapagos. And yes, Peru is touristy, but it's so beautiful you wouldn't want to miss it.

If you're reading this, you've already got some interest in South America, so why not make 2013 the year to see the Andes in real life?

Expatkerri's Top 10 Best Spots in Seoul

Yeuido Park at dusk, Seoul 2012 (photo taken with Instagram)

Since 2006, I've been a believer in Seoul as one of the greatest cities of the world. Busy, beautiful, complex, and inspiring, the possibilities for places to visit and things to do are nearly endless. Upon first arrival though, taking a glance at the subway map and the massive crowds on the streets can be quite intimidating.

Where should you go? What should you do?

Here I offer you my top 10 favourite spots in the coolest city in South Korea! I give descriptions of neighbourhoods I like, as well as the activities you can do in those areas. I hope this helps you make the most of your time in Seoul, however long or short your trip.

10 - Visit Myeongdong - "If the shopoholic came to Seoul, she would spend her days in MyeongDong"

Centrally located just a few stops north of Seoul Station, Myeongdong is the most famous area for clothes shopping in all of Seoul. If the crowds don't impress you, the clothes will. This is a really good place to shop for Korean-style clothes, as many of the shops have beautiful window displays which showcase how the pieces are meant to be worn. Korean fashion involves a lot of baggy pieces, layers, and feature pieces, and it can sometimes be hard to see how a certain item might be incorporated into an outfit. I find showing curiosity in feature pieces draws over the employees who will really help to put an outfit together for you. You will feel fantastic in new colours and patterns which you can wear for the rest of your time in Seoul. Though it's not the cheapest shopping area, you should definitely come to Myeongdong if you are at all interested in shopping for clothes while in Seoul.

How to get there: Myeongdong subway station. Line 4, exit 5.


9 - Visit Gyeongbuk Palace - "If the Prime Minister came to Seoul, they would take him to see GyeongBuk Palace"

GyeongBuk Palace, or Gyeongbuk Gung, (gung means palace in Korean) is the biggest, most famous, and best palace in Seoul. It's touristy, but with good reason. Before you enter, take photos of the bearded guards in colourful uniforms, and wait around until they do the changing of the guards. Once you're inside, it's less than 3,000 won to enter the palace, and you'll easily spend hours walking through the grounds. There is a picturesque lake and temple, as well as a museum and a cafe. And, if you like, you can even pay to dress up like Korean royalty and have your photo taken to preserve your memories at the palace.

How to get there: Gyeongbukgung subway station. Line 3, exit 3.


8 - Visit Carosu Gil, Apgujeong - "If Rhianna came to Seoul, she would party in Apgujeong"

Apgujeong is a famously rich district in Seoul, and on Carosu Gil (gil means street in Korean) you'll find the rich and famous out shopping and dining. Most of the stores in this area are extremely expensive designer clothing shops where the employees follow you around like hawks, but it can be really cool to see the beautiful and creative designs. You'll also find cafes with gorgeous and unique interior designs, offering everything from blueberry lattes to wine spritzers. Come here if you want to see the high life of wealthy Seoulites.

How to get there: Apgujeong subway station. Line 3, exit 4. Come out the exit and walk straight for 500m until you reach a sign which reads Carosu Gil on your left. Or just ask someone for Carosu Gil.


7 - Visit Yeuido - "If Lance Armstrong visited Seoul with his kids, they would cycle around Yeuido"

Along the shore of the Han River, families, couples and friends gather in the grass for picnics watching the rollerbladers whiz by. Many people bring tents to this park as there can be a lack of shade in some parts. If you're up for it, there's a waterpark in the park as well with a wave pool. There are also lots of food stands and people handing out flyers for fast food chains which deliver right to the park. You can rent a bike for 3,000 won per hour, or 5,000 for 2 hours, and then you can join the many bike riders along the paths. (Just leave an ID card while you bike to ensure your return). The rental bikes are in top shape, and you can even rent a bicycle for two. How romantic.

How to get there: Yeuido Station. Line 5, exit 3, walk straight for 5 minutes to the open arena with bikers and rollerbladers towards the national assembly building.


6 - Visit Yongsan - "If Ironman came to Seoul, he'd recharge himself in Yongsan"

If you want that overwhelming "I'minAsia!" feeling, Yongsan is the place. This electronic market is packed full of everything anyone could ever need in the form of electronic items: computers, netbooks, cameras, earphones, voice recorders, video equipment, and an endless supply of goodies to go along with these items. After a few hours walking around the electronic market, go down the stairs to Dragon Spa for the ultimate post-neon-shopping relaxation. Dragon Spa is one of the top Jimjilbangs in all of Korea (in my opinion) - and you can trust me, I've been to plenty.

How to get there: Yongsan Station. Line 1, main entrance to electronics market.


5 - Visit Namdaemun Market - "If Batman came to Seoul, he'd have a chase scene through Namdaemun market"

From cameras to Christmas trees, Namdaemun market has a little bit of everything to make any day of shopping worthwhile. If you aren't looking for anything specific, you'll still find yourself leaving the market area with a few treasures. You'll also see a wall of camera stores where you can buy extra batteries and other camera accessories. You can enjoy the beautiful gate by which the area is named after (though it has been under construction since an arson attack in 2008). The market is within walking distance of Seoul station, and there are many restaurants in the area as well as lots of street food.

How to get there: Hoehyeon Station. Line 4, exit 5.

　

4 - Visit Cheonggyecheon - "If the Bachelor came to Seoul, he would take his final choice on a date to Cheonggyecheon"

The perfect end to any day in Seoul is closer than you think. Cheonggyecheon (cheon means stream in Korean) is amazingly quiet and peaceful, almost to the point that you forget where you are. With beautifully lit bridges and waterfalls at night, it's a lovely spot to take photos, and just to sit and listen to the water. You'll never be alone though, as many people seek to find a few serene moments below the city roads. If you're into the vibe, buy some drinks at the Family Mart, find a cozy spot, and people-watch the night away.

How to get there: City Hall Station. Line 1, exit 4. Walk straight 5 minutes until you reach the entrance of the stream.


3 - Visit Samcheong-dong - "If Justin Beiber and Selena Gomez hung out in Seoul, they'd eat waffles in Samcheong-dong"

Take a break from the skyscrapers and noisy chain coffeeshops in favour of small windy streets and independent restaurants. Samcheong-dong is a wonderful way to enjoy Seoul on a smaller scale, literally: tiny roads, 8-seater restaurants, and boutique clothes shops line the streets just north of touristy Insadong. It's easy to fall in love with Seoul when you walk here, as you see art galleries next to adorable coffee shops with cozy creative atmospheres. The area also boasts an owl museum and the entrance to Bugaksan where you can see a great view of the city and the remaining ancient city walls.

How to get there: Anguk subway station: Line 3, exit 1. Cross the street and walk the opposite way from Insadong road.


2 - Visit Dongdaemun - "If Stella McCartney came to Seoul, hanging out in Dongdaemun would inspire her new clothing line"

The madness of this complex of 8 storey open malls is enough to make anyone a fashionista. After wandering the endless stalls of colourful belts and wild patterned skirts, you'll find yourself attracted to items you never considered before. Dongdaemun offers everything and anything that a human being can wear, all in one place. It can be exhausting if you spend more than a few hours inside, but I suggest taking the escalator up to a floor you like, and exploring that entire floor, then taking a coffee break on the top floor. That way you can maximize your shopping time and manage your energy levels. Also, if you're lucky, you'll be able to find the warehouse where you find rows of buttons and jewels to be strung into necklaces and wall hangings.

How to get there: Dongdaemun History and Culture Park subway station. Line 4 & Line 2 intersection, Exit 14.


1 - Visit Hongdae - "If the early days of the Beatles were happening now in Korea, they would perform in Hongdae."

Finally, my personal favourite neighbourhood: Hongdae. Hongdae is the name for the nightbourhood surrounding Hongik university, an art university which attracts creative talent from across the peninsula. Taking a walk around this area you'll see a lot of wild hair colours and styles, a lot of tattoos, a lot of musicians, and a lot of foreigners. This area is becoming very popular among the expat community as a place to party on the weekends. There are a lot of clubs and bars around this area which make it a great place to go out any night of the week. I recommend first visiting on a weekday afternoon for fewer crowds and great people watching. It will also help you get your bearings if you plan on coming back at night. At night, enjoy live music performances, dance-offs, flash mobs, art shows, all over a bottle of rice wine.

How to get there: Hongik University subway station. Line 2, exit 9.

Now you know where to go and what to do to make the most of your time in Seoul.

Enjoy the winding streets, enjoy getting lost and found, enjoy the cleanest and fastest subway rides, and definitely enjoy the street food!

Thoughts on Colombia

"I don't think you should go to Colombia,"

my sister texted me, just weeks before I set off on my trip through Central and South America,

"my friend is Colombian and she hasn't even been back there in 15 years."

There are two sides to every story, and that applies evermore to travel in Colombia. On one side, Colombia is a violent and dangerous country, ruled for decades by outlaw armed groups and later by billionaire cocaine smugglers. Of the same grain, a visit to the Canadian travel report on Colombia could easily scare you away from booking your ticket. Talking about your travel plans for Colombia can result in worried disapproving looks from friends and family. A quick Google search which turns up articles about young gangs hired by drug lords to kill the cops doesn't really help either.

But on the other side, the traveler's side, you hear a different story of Colombia entirely. Stories of magical lost cities, of colonial statues and salsa at night, of crystal clear beaches and breezy mountain villages, of cumbia bus rides and dancing in line at the ATM, of smiling handshakes and milkshakes of lulo... the kinds of stories that make a place alluring and fantastic. When recent travelers are asked about it, they all say the same thing:

"You will love Colombia"

The truth is, Colombia is a different place now than it was 15 years ago. The intense fear surrounding travel in this country is not without reason, but now with travelers to nearly all regions of the country, are we ready to re-think it?


I am in Medellin as I write this post, which at one point was the most murderous city in the world. You wouldn't know it now, though, as locals chat with us, offering advice for places to visit or giving directions.

The increased security of the last ten years makes Colombia much more accessible for travelers. On this journey through Colombia so far, I've met visitors from Ireland, England, Germany, Austria, Holland, France, Spain, Mexico, the USA, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, South Korea, Colombia and of course, fellow Canadians. The majority of travelers here seem enthralled by the culture and nature of this country, and many are adjusting travel plans to manage overstaying every place they visit. I'm no exception.


Starting with a booking for 3 nights in Cartagena and staying for a week was just the beginning. The old city left me breathless and dying to see more of the colourful buildings. It also gave me the sweetest taste of anticipation for what the rest of South America has to offer. After overstaying in Cartagena, I only imagined a few nights in Taganga. I ended up spending another week diving in the national park, among blowfish the size of my torso and some of the prettiest coral walls I've ever seen. The rumours are true:

"You will fall in love with Colombia"

I've already fallen in love with Colombia, evidenced by my extremely slow journey here. I went through the whole of Costa Rica in just over a week, and I've already spent two weeks just in the northern regions of Colombia. But that's me, and that's how I travel: when I like a place, I stay for a while. Lucky for me, my travel partner travels by the same rule.

So, why did I like Taganga, and why did I overstay my planned visit by a week? I went into a dive shop looking to do some fun dives, and I was greeted with the friendliest and warmest smiles. The dives were gorgeous too, but it was the people who took us on those dives who made me want to stay. People like our boat captain Oscar, a 60-something Colombian man who sings to himself while we prepare our tanks and put on our fins. Or the man selling empanadas on the beach who eyes us when he says 'cervezas', just in case we want another one. Or the simple welcome of an "hola chicas" as we return to our hostel after a day at sea. Or the 12-year old next to me on the plane who strikes up a conversation in Spanish and suggests spots to visit in his hometown of Cali. It's just like all the travelers said:

"You will meet the nicest people there"

Now 2 weeks into Colombia, I can only wonder if our upcoming destinations: Salento, Cali, Popayan, San Agustin, and Bogota will implore us to overstay as well. At this rate, hearing what the travelers coming north have to say, it'll be another month before we actually leave this country, at least. We plan for 2 more weeks before we get to Ecuador, but can we really see and do all that we want in just 2 weeks? Like everyone tells us:

"You will want more time everywhere in Colombia"

The only way I will be able to leave this country is to know that I'll be coming back. Already contemplating future teaching jobs and learning Spanish here, I know this first month in Colombia won't be my last.